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Enjoy!
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
Better Late Than Never Pt.I
Finally. We know it's been a while, but we've been making some serious memories. Now it's time to share. Accordingly, we appreciate your patience; things have been awesome down in NZ. When we left off with our story, we were still on the road heading out on a short tramp to the Welcome Flats. Now we have been in Dunedin for nearly 3 weeks now and there is quite a lot to catch all of you up on! We're going to try and start where we left off...and cover all of the good stuff.
So after our excursion on the West Coast we headed over on the 73 and stopped an evening in Arthurs Pass...beautiful location halfway between Greymouth and Christchurch. In Arthurs Pass we did a nice day hike to the summit of Avalanche Peak and quickly headed towards Castle Hill for a couple of days of great bouldering. Caste Hill...WHAT A SPOT! We had two full days of great bouldering on some really interesting limestone features. Think big blobs of limestone with really awkwardly placed pockets and indentations. We made friends with some guys from the UK there who let us borrow their pad and had ourselves an epic time.
After Castle Hill we booked it up to Kaikoura, a town 2 hours north of Christchurch on the Pacific Coast. We got into Kaikoura right around evening time and immediately drove to the nearest Irish Pub for some much needed dinner, a pool game, and some beverages. The "Strawberry Tree" had a whitefish platter that we had to sample. After dinner and a hearty number of pints, we heard the band was looking for musicians. If you know David and I, this was a beckoning we were obliged to take...playing music, live, for the first time in a long time was a ridiculous opportunity. So we sat in with the band until about 1:30 am or so, playing plenty of classic songs and making best friends with just about everyone in the pub..what a night. Somewhere a long the way that evening we made friends with a couple of american girls and their british boyfriends and were offered a place to stay for the evening. We went to their place that night, played a bit more music...until we were told to "pipe down" by one of the american girls who had work and all crashed on the living room floor. This little spot turned out to be our home for the next few nights. We spent 3 nights in Kaikoura...spending most of our time surfing, playing music, and surfing some more...and maybe playing a little more music after that. EPIC. We loved Kaikoura and already miss our friends there. One story that we have to tell you is how we made dinner one of our nights there. We went to a beach called Kahatura to check the surf and decided to make an oven out of stones and cook pizzas in it. While half of the blokes surfed (David, Brandon) the other half including Tom Cromwell (longwhiteclouds.co.uk) built the oven. Pretty simple; stack round stones around about a half by full meter long flat cooking rock, build a big fire, get the embers strong, push it to the back in throw in your 'za and close it off. Andy built a pizza paddle from dried seaweed to top it off. Only problem was the tide! Came up quick, and cut the pizzas a bit short...had to go back to the flats to finish them off in the oven.
The next day, we had a day at the beach. Surfed a break called Meatworks..it was working pretty well and everyone caught some fun ones. That night we had a big cook off, potluck sorta thing, and had a dinner party sorta thing as well with all of our temporary roommates. While partying...we decided we were going for a dawn patrol the next day and we all woke up at 6:00am to go check the surf...turns out it wasn't even that good, but David paddled out anyway. The rest watched a low tide that was not so keen and a bit chilly.
After saying our goodbyes, we headed down towards Christchurch. A straight B line to watch "Da Super Bowl." Ditka, Ditka. Good match, eh? Stoked on the Saints victory over the dreaded Colts. Yes, we all rep. the NOS down yonder, and so did all the Kiwis that were at the pub. After the game, we headed straight back home to Dunedin.
Pt. II will be all about the concluding thoughts on our trip and our time in Dunedin so far...
So after our excursion on the West Coast we headed over on the 73 and stopped an evening in Arthurs Pass...beautiful location halfway between Greymouth and Christchurch. In Arthurs Pass we did a nice day hike to the summit of Avalanche Peak and quickly headed towards Castle Hill for a couple of days of great bouldering. Caste Hill...WHAT A SPOT! We had two full days of great bouldering on some really interesting limestone features. Think big blobs of limestone with really awkwardly placed pockets and indentations. We made friends with some guys from the UK there who let us borrow their pad and had ourselves an epic time.
After Castle Hill we booked it up to Kaikoura, a town 2 hours north of Christchurch on the Pacific Coast. We got into Kaikoura right around evening time and immediately drove to the nearest Irish Pub for some much needed dinner, a pool game, and some beverages. The "Strawberry Tree" had a whitefish platter that we had to sample. After dinner and a hearty number of pints, we heard the band was looking for musicians. If you know David and I, this was a beckoning we were obliged to take...playing music, live, for the first time in a long time was a ridiculous opportunity. So we sat in with the band until about 1:30 am or so, playing plenty of classic songs and making best friends with just about everyone in the pub..what a night. Somewhere a long the way that evening we made friends with a couple of american girls and their british boyfriends and were offered a place to stay for the evening. We went to their place that night, played a bit more music...until we were told to "pipe down" by one of the american girls who had work and all crashed on the living room floor. This little spot turned out to be our home for the next few nights. We spent 3 nights in Kaikoura...spending most of our time surfing, playing music, and surfing some more...and maybe playing a little more music after that. EPIC. We loved Kaikoura and already miss our friends there. One story that we have to tell you is how we made dinner one of our nights there. We went to a beach called Kahatura to check the surf and decided to make an oven out of stones and cook pizzas in it. While half of the blokes surfed (David, Brandon) the other half including Tom Cromwell (longwhiteclouds.co.uk) built the oven. Pretty simple; stack round stones around about a half by full meter long flat cooking rock, build a big fire, get the embers strong, push it to the back in throw in your 'za and close it off. Andy built a pizza paddle from dried seaweed to top it off. Only problem was the tide! Came up quick, and cut the pizzas a bit short...had to go back to the flats to finish them off in the oven.
The next day, we had a day at the beach. Surfed a break called Meatworks..it was working pretty well and everyone caught some fun ones. That night we had a big cook off, potluck sorta thing, and had a dinner party sorta thing as well with all of our temporary roommates. While partying...we decided we were going for a dawn patrol the next day and we all woke up at 6:00am to go check the surf...turns out it wasn't even that good, but David paddled out anyway. The rest watched a low tide that was not so keen and a bit chilly.
After saying our goodbyes, we headed down towards Christchurch. A straight B line to watch "Da Super Bowl." Ditka, Ditka. Good match, eh? Stoked on the Saints victory over the dreaded Colts. Yes, we all rep. the NOS down yonder, and so did all the Kiwis that were at the pub. After the game, we headed straight back home to Dunedin.
Pt. II will be all about the concluding thoughts on our trip and our time in Dunedin so far...
Friday, January 29, 2010
Aspiring our way out west...The 6, rainforest and glaciers....
From Chinaman's Bluff at the end off the Rees-Dart (or the start of the Dart-Rees) on the Dart glacier:
The glacier sinks back out of sight
around the corner, yields grudgingly beneath its rough and ugly coat
Battered Dinosaur, relict old misfit.
Sad but true to see the utter destruction that is the recession of the Dart Glacier. Papatuanuku, the Maori Earth Mother would be ashamed of us humans...
This is paraphrased from my Jan. 29th journal entry:
Currently driving Highway 6 up the West Coast. Just passed through all of Mt. Aspiring Nat'l Park. We did a short walk to the Blue Pools (30 min.) right off of the road. I was completely blown away by Highway 6-certainly a rival of California's Highway 1.
***
After leaving Wanaka behind, Lake Hawea is the backdrop to the east as Lake Wanaka emerges west-the 6 skirts and meanders between the two. Both are impressive and massive lakes surrounded by snow capped mountains.
As we left Wanaka behind, populated areas dissapeared almost completely. Deeper into Aspiring, the environment got increasingly tropical looking with greenery, ferns, vines, and other rainforest-type foliage as far as the eye could see. The Blue Pools (at the foot of the Wilkins valley) resembeled pictures of Thailand I have seen...
Continuing up and down past waterfalls and a "Hawaii but with snowy mountains" type environ (as David determined) we eventually punched through to Haast and the West Coast. A dinky little town, Haast was ultimately worthy of stopping only for a quick meat pie. The 6 then continued along the coast for an hour's worth of kilometers and we passed by coastal estuaries, bayou type wilderness lodges (whiched looked suprisingly cozey and inviting for being in the literal middle of nowhere), and streams. Finally, we made it to a high vantage point called King's Point where the views of the Tasman Sea were stunning.
Seeing and smelling the ocean for the first time in a long time (since Dunedin on the East Coast) after reaching it after Haast made me reminisce and appreciate California-especially because our first stopping point at Shipwreck Cove had a peaky wave dotted with surfers..
Just like the 1, the 6 heads north along the West Coast-but there is one main difference: California has no coastal mountains-or any mountains for that matter (and believe me...I know from experience!) that rival Mt. Cook and Mt. Tasman which we finally got our first glimpses of in the quaint township of Fox Glacier. After a Speights (the "Pride of the Southland" brown ale) and a quick game of pool, it was time to find some (free) camping.
Heading back out to the beach from Fox, we followed a dirt road to Gillespie's beach, a Department of Conservation maintained but free campsite. We cooked korma curry, lentils, some veggies and rice on the beach when finally, the remaining clouds cleared (we have been unbelievably lucky with the weather) and we got our first true views of both mountains and reveled in their glory. To sit on the beach, hear and smell the ocean and look at the mountains with features typical of the Himilaya was unlike any other place I have been-except maybe Alaska, but New Zealand's version is just-if not more-awe inspiring.
As the sun went down in the southwest, the full moon appeared in the north, and with Mt. Cook (Aoraki ) and Mt. Tasman-the two tallest mountains in NZ mind you-coated in a false but warm and comforting hue of alpenglow, I was experiencing sensory overload.
Camping right on the beach, we lita a small fire, and crawled in our tent in the interest of a big full day, (which turned out to be a slow and extremely rainy day...but we still should be able to make it on trail by the 31st.)
One of the most impressive days of my life and I was able and lucky enough to capture most of it on film (will update pictures back in Dunedin). Just about to lay my head down with the sound of waves crashing where the Tasman meets New Zealand in the background. Some instant coffee and free range NZ eggs for the AM in the vestibule ald life is good. I love this country.
Cheers, thanks for reading and it feels great to catch you guys up! We will post when we get a chance after our next tramp!
-Andy
The glacier sinks back out of sight
around the corner, yields grudgingly beneath its rough and ugly coat
Battered Dinosaur, relict old misfit.
Sad but true to see the utter destruction that is the recession of the Dart Glacier. Papatuanuku, the Maori Earth Mother would be ashamed of us humans...
This is paraphrased from my Jan. 29th journal entry:
Currently driving Highway 6 up the West Coast. Just passed through all of Mt. Aspiring Nat'l Park. We did a short walk to the Blue Pools (30 min.) right off of the road. I was completely blown away by Highway 6-certainly a rival of California's Highway 1.
***
After leaving Wanaka behind, Lake Hawea is the backdrop to the east as Lake Wanaka emerges west-the 6 skirts and meanders between the two. Both are impressive and massive lakes surrounded by snow capped mountains.
As we left Wanaka behind, populated areas dissapeared almost completely. Deeper into Aspiring, the environment got increasingly tropical looking with greenery, ferns, vines, and other rainforest-type foliage as far as the eye could see. The Blue Pools (at the foot of the Wilkins valley) resembeled pictures of Thailand I have seen...
Continuing up and down past waterfalls and a "Hawaii but with snowy mountains" type environ (as David determined) we eventually punched through to Haast and the West Coast. A dinky little town, Haast was ultimately worthy of stopping only for a quick meat pie. The 6 then continued along the coast for an hour's worth of kilometers and we passed by coastal estuaries, bayou type wilderness lodges (whiched looked suprisingly cozey and inviting for being in the literal middle of nowhere), and streams. Finally, we made it to a high vantage point called King's Point where the views of the Tasman Sea were stunning.
Seeing and smelling the ocean for the first time in a long time (since Dunedin on the East Coast) after reaching it after Haast made me reminisce and appreciate California-especially because our first stopping point at Shipwreck Cove had a peaky wave dotted with surfers..
Just like the 1, the 6 heads north along the West Coast-but there is one main difference: California has no coastal mountains-or any mountains for that matter (and believe me...I know from experience!) that rival Mt. Cook and Mt. Tasman which we finally got our first glimpses of in the quaint township of Fox Glacier. After a Speights (the "Pride of the Southland" brown ale) and a quick game of pool, it was time to find some (free) camping.
Heading back out to the beach from Fox, we followed a dirt road to Gillespie's beach, a Department of Conservation maintained but free campsite. We cooked korma curry, lentils, some veggies and rice on the beach when finally, the remaining clouds cleared (we have been unbelievably lucky with the weather) and we got our first true views of both mountains and reveled in their glory. To sit on the beach, hear and smell the ocean and look at the mountains with features typical of the Himilaya was unlike any other place I have been-except maybe Alaska, but New Zealand's version is just-if not more-awe inspiring.
As the sun went down in the southwest, the full moon appeared in the north, and with Mt. Cook (Aoraki ) and Mt. Tasman-the two tallest mountains in NZ mind you-coated in a false but warm and comforting hue of alpenglow, I was experiencing sensory overload.
Camping right on the beach, we lita a small fire, and crawled in our tent in the interest of a big full day, (which turned out to be a slow and extremely rainy day...but we still should be able to make it on trail by the 31st.)
One of the most impressive days of my life and I was able and lucky enough to capture most of it on film (will update pictures back in Dunedin). Just about to lay my head down with the sound of waves crashing where the Tasman meets New Zealand in the background. Some instant coffee and free range NZ eggs for the AM in the vestibule ald life is good. I love this country.
Cheers, thanks for reading and it feels great to catch you guys up! We will post when we get a chance after our next tramp!
-Andy
adventures on the Reese-Dart and the Cascade Saddle
Hey everyone
Finally found an opportunity for an update on our travels down here in New Zealand. Andy I are gonna split the update because we simply have too much to talk about...I am gonna stick to telling a bit about our tramp up the Reese and Dart Valleys and our excursion to the Cascade Saddle. The Dart-Reese track starts out of the town of Glenorchy...a little drive away from Queenstown. Glenorchy is a small kinda mountain town that reminds me a lot of Gustavus up in Alaska. We started our tramp going up the Reese Valley. The beginning of the Reese Valley is mostly boggy farmland surrounded by pretty fat mountains. Our first day consisted of quite a few river crossings...pretty wet socks...Jungley mud walking and finally an arrival at Shelter Rock hut, surrounded by beautiful mountains. We woke up early the next day at Shelter rock hut to climb over the Reese Saddle and than down to Dart Hut...Our day started pretty windy and rainy, which made the trekking kinda fun and challenging and than turned into a super sunny and hot day. Our decent from on top of the Reese Saddle took us down a beautiful river gorge and was a bit longer than we expected. Once at Dart hut I was pretty spent so I did some yoga, meditation, and took a nap, while Andy and Sean went off to check out the Whitburn Valley and glacier... From the sound of it...it was like some tarzan trekking with vine swinging included.
The next day (Cascade Saddle and Pylon) was one of the best days of hiking I've ever had. Our plan was to walk up the Dart Valley until we hit the Cascade Saddle...go up to the top of the Saddle and than go to the Pylon (the high point before the trail drops back down to the Wanaka Region). We started out pretty early and our first part of the day went by in what seemed like seconds...without packs Andy and I were nearly running down the trail. A handful of river crossings later and we were at the Dart Glacier with views of the Marshall Glacier and huge mountains all around us. I felt almost like i was in the Himalayas or something (not that I have been there before), but the relief from the valley floor to the top of the mountains was pretty overwhelming and epic. From the valley floor the trail started to wind its way up a scree/talus slope until it finally made its way to the top of a huge mountains saddle. the views up there were amazing and were blessed with pretty much blue bird weather. Andy and I were feeling pretty spry still so we decided to keep up our jogging pace and charge up to the pylon...finally at 1900 meters we arrived at the pylon and were rewarded with some of the best alpine views I have ever seen. Mt. Aspiring along with other peaks surrounded us and we could see down into both the Glenorchy and Wanaka regions. On the pylon Andy and I enjoyed on a budget tuna sandwich lunch and some much needed, but brief relaxation time. Our trip down from the Saddle was a bit long....maybe some would call it a slog, but it was great. The rivers had risen slightly from snow melt...so the crossings were iffy, but the day of epic views was worth it. Finally at the Dart hut we enjoyed a Mac n' Cheese dinner and passed out early from exhaustion! GREAT DAY!
Things to note about that trip: Jim didn't make it because of a bum hit...he made it to dart hut...but had to be helicoptered out.
Sean Split off for a bit with his friend mike, but we have met up with him since than...so things are all good.
After our Cascade Saddle day Andy and I were the only ones left...We flew down the Dart valley to Daley Flat hut...shared an evening full of Sand flies and Israelis and finally made it out a couple days later at Chinamans Bluff.
Overall, what a great trip! The Dart-Reese is definitely one of the best tramps in NZ and is one of the most epic hikes I have ever done.
Thats all for now from me
until next post
-David
Finally found an opportunity for an update on our travels down here in New Zealand. Andy I are gonna split the update because we simply have too much to talk about...I am gonna stick to telling a bit about our tramp up the Reese and Dart Valleys and our excursion to the Cascade Saddle. The Dart-Reese track starts out of the town of Glenorchy...a little drive away from Queenstown. Glenorchy is a small kinda mountain town that reminds me a lot of Gustavus up in Alaska. We started our tramp going up the Reese Valley. The beginning of the Reese Valley is mostly boggy farmland surrounded by pretty fat mountains. Our first day consisted of quite a few river crossings...pretty wet socks...Jungley mud walking and finally an arrival at Shelter Rock hut, surrounded by beautiful mountains. We woke up early the next day at Shelter rock hut to climb over the Reese Saddle and than down to Dart Hut...Our day started pretty windy and rainy, which made the trekking kinda fun and challenging and than turned into a super sunny and hot day. Our decent from on top of the Reese Saddle took us down a beautiful river gorge and was a bit longer than we expected. Once at Dart hut I was pretty spent so I did some yoga, meditation, and took a nap, while Andy and Sean went off to check out the Whitburn Valley and glacier... From the sound of it...it was like some tarzan trekking with vine swinging included.
The next day (Cascade Saddle and Pylon) was one of the best days of hiking I've ever had. Our plan was to walk up the Dart Valley until we hit the Cascade Saddle...go up to the top of the Saddle and than go to the Pylon (the high point before the trail drops back down to the Wanaka Region). We started out pretty early and our first part of the day went by in what seemed like seconds...without packs Andy and I were nearly running down the trail. A handful of river crossings later and we were at the Dart Glacier with views of the Marshall Glacier and huge mountains all around us. I felt almost like i was in the Himalayas or something (not that I have been there before), but the relief from the valley floor to the top of the mountains was pretty overwhelming and epic. From the valley floor the trail started to wind its way up a scree/talus slope until it finally made its way to the top of a huge mountains saddle. the views up there were amazing and were blessed with pretty much blue bird weather. Andy and I were feeling pretty spry still so we decided to keep up our jogging pace and charge up to the pylon...finally at 1900 meters we arrived at the pylon and were rewarded with some of the best alpine views I have ever seen. Mt. Aspiring along with other peaks surrounded us and we could see down into both the Glenorchy and Wanaka regions. On the pylon Andy and I enjoyed on a budget tuna sandwich lunch and some much needed, but brief relaxation time. Our trip down from the Saddle was a bit long....maybe some would call it a slog, but it was great. The rivers had risen slightly from snow melt...so the crossings were iffy, but the day of epic views was worth it. Finally at the Dart hut we enjoyed a Mac n' Cheese dinner and passed out early from exhaustion! GREAT DAY!
Things to note about that trip: Jim didn't make it because of a bum hit...he made it to dart hut...but had to be helicoptered out.
Sean Split off for a bit with his friend mike, but we have met up with him since than...so things are all good.
After our Cascade Saddle day Andy and I were the only ones left...We flew down the Dart valley to Daley Flat hut...shared an evening full of Sand flies and Israelis and finally made it out a couple days later at Chinamans Bluff.
Overall, what a great trip! The Dart-Reese is definitely one of the best tramps in NZ and is one of the most epic hikes I have ever done.
Thats all for now from me
until next post
-David
Thursday, January 21, 2010
Hello from Glenorchy!!
Hey everyone
I only have a few minutes so I am going to keep this post short and sweet. Right now we are in Glenorchy (45 minutes out of Queentown) and we are getting ready to do our next tramp, the Reese-Dart. Glenorchy is really... nice it reminds me a lot of Gustavus, Alaska. Nice small town with a little golf course and not much else. The past few days have been good. We had a chance to do some rock climbing out of queenstown at a spot called Wye Creek (awesome spot with crazy shist rock)...before that we did the Kepler track which was a beauitful tramp through the Kepler mountains outside of Te Anau. The tramp was really enjoyable and definitely one of the most beautiful spots I have ever been to.
So for now I am going to sign off, but stay tuned for a post about the Reese-Dart track...its going to be awesome! Highlights we are looking forward to: The Cascade Saddle...seeing a ton of big glaciers and being in the high apline area in Mt. Aspiring National Park.
So stoked for this next tramp and I'll do a legitmate post as soon as I get a chance!
-David
I only have a few minutes so I am going to keep this post short and sweet. Right now we are in Glenorchy (45 minutes out of Queentown) and we are getting ready to do our next tramp, the Reese-Dart. Glenorchy is really... nice it reminds me a lot of Gustavus, Alaska. Nice small town with a little golf course and not much else. The past few days have been good. We had a chance to do some rock climbing out of queenstown at a spot called Wye Creek (awesome spot with crazy shist rock)...before that we did the Kepler track which was a beauitful tramp through the Kepler mountains outside of Te Anau. The tramp was really enjoyable and definitely one of the most beautiful spots I have ever been to.
So for now I am going to sign off, but stay tuned for a post about the Reese-Dart track...its going to be awesome! Highlights we are looking forward to: The Cascade Saddle...seeing a ton of big glaciers and being in the high apline area in Mt. Aspiring National Park.
So stoked for this next tramp and I'll do a legitmate post as soon as I get a chance!
-David
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
The town of Queens
Queenstown. Right on lake Wakatupi, it is easily the adventure capitol of NZ. Yesterday we got off trail in Fiordland and drove straight up here. The drive on Highway 6 was unreal. Wide open and surrounded by mountains.
Had an interesting encounter climbing shist today after walking 13 miles yesterday...quite the bout.
Tomorrow, we head out up to Glenorchy and get on the Dart-Rees track to see glaciers and the Remarkables.
Almost out of internet minutes,
Andy
Had an interesting encounter climbing shist today after walking 13 miles yesterday...quite the bout.
Tomorrow, we head out up to Glenorchy and get on the Dart-Rees track to see glaciers and the Remarkables.
Almost out of internet minutes,
Andy
Friday, January 15, 2010
parting words
New Zealand. What is there to say? This place is an absolute gem. How can one describe a place and a people who simply have it all? As of our short amount of time being here (3 for David and I, 2 for Jim) everything has been unbelievable!
To begin, the scenery around Dunedin...well let's just say the rain's constancy pays off in lush green rolling hills (yes, there are plenty of sheep) but David already told you that.
boat shed on water.
Standing on cliffs rolling into the ocean on the edge of the Otago yesterday, it was bizarre to reflect on the notion that Antarctica...yes, Antarctica with penguins...is due south (and not too far at all!). But we'll save the real visual descriptions for later after our tramps.
New Zealanders...are frugal, helpful and downright righteously awesome. You bet, you've heard it before and now you're hearing it first hand from us. The Kiwi himself Rob Ayling once told me...well you'll have to hear the story in person. It had to do with "knockers." Crude but appropriate humor is commonplace.
But to cut to the chase, I have been ABSOLUTELY blown away by how friendly New Zealanders are. There is almost nothing but cheer here. If someone has been having a bad day, they sure don't let it be known to you; a practice seldom seen in the states. I find it AWESOME that here Kiwis are on the best piece of real estate in the world, and are more than ready to help you explore it...all the while helping with a smile!
The Suburu we acquired will soon take us out to the Fiordlands where we will be treking the Kepler Track, one of 8 "Great Walks..." walks considered to be more than just excellent but utterly primo in this country are labeled such and are "can't missers." Bethesda, a Welsh town on the river Ogwen is the name of our station wagon and will surely take us on safe travels through February. Tomorrow we'll throw in packs (some more packed than others) and hit the road to Te Anau. We can't wait to be on trail...but we also can't wait to tell you all about it!
This may be our last post for some time as we'll be in the backcountry, but we will try to inform you of our manly exploits as we can. So, farewell for now Dunedin, we'll miss you but we will be back. Cheers to all and spread the IrieKiwi blogspot to other friends and family!
In conclusion, Sweet as bru!
Hei Kona Ra
-Andy
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